Why do you think I say that when you go out and buy a succulent, thinking, “Oh, this is just a plant,” only to have it turn into a pile of brown mush in two weeks? Because you assume all thick-leaved plants will be treated alike. All those succulents up on the shelf might resemble each other, but internally they’re not alike.
Look at their form of growth, not the genus or species name (first). That’s how you’ll keep them alive.
Look at the Shape of Your Succulent
So what about a potted plant? Its shape is the form it grows into. That tells you how much light it needs and what kind of pot to use (see chart above). If you don’t respect this form when watering, you’re fighting biology.
Succulent plants has adapted to store water in various parts. Some have thickened pads, such as leaf succulents with rosette shapes. Others have thicker stems, called trunks and ribs on stem succulents like cacti.
Leaf succulents want shallow dishes because deep soil stays wet too long, but stem succulents need heavier, taller pots to stay upright and let their roots breathe. The other reason they ask for shallow containers is so the roots can breathe; the bigger the plant, the heavier the container needs to be (and also the taller, for stem succulents).
Most of what we see on retail shelves tends toward the rosettes and trailing ones, which are the mass market versions, the ones for those shallow saucers and hanging basket. Those are also the ones that is easiest to locate. Head into specialty aisles where one sees tree-like, or at least upright, forms with greater vertical presence. They are not bigger version of familiar subjects. The structure is something different.
Are they drought resistant like tough desert plants? Yes, even a columnar succulent is such a thing, storing water in its stem for weeks after a good long soak. Sometimes an Echeveria will look wrinkly during a busy week and you won’t know why. Rosette types store water in their leaves, which dry off quickly. A thicker trunk does not. Knowing this makes you less likely to freak out. The plant is simply tapping into reserves.
How does one propagate? That depends on its shape. Put the leaf cutting of a roselike creature in the same soil as the tall cactus and your cactus will kill it dead. Spiral whorls take their own kind of cutting; just pop off some leaves, and the base will send up new pups. Columnar or shrubbier types are typically done by taking cuttings from stems after they have calloused, meaning you shouldn’t plant them in soil until then. The graphic matrix link shape to the right propagation pathway.
Don’t expect a heavy stem to stand upright in a saucer of water and take root. Know yourself; know your weight. A common error with trailing types is to stake them straight up. Don’t do it. These are meant to hang down. Forcing them upright disrupts their natural shape and also looks fake. Let them dangle.
Hens and chicks kinds desire snug quarters. If you have a tiny ball of a plant inside a massive pot, guess what? The soil will be sodden for days, creating a swamp that kills the roots. Another no-brainer: volume of soil.
When shopping succulents, examine their shape first. Is it vertical (requiring a sturdy base) or horizontal (flat and requiring a sun-facing position)? Once you recognize the form, it’s obvious how to take care of it. Guesswork vanishes; observation begins. By understanding the shape, you understand the care. You pay attention to the plant, it will tell you what it wants. Then you believe in that form, fit the pot accordingly, and poof: no more mess. It isn’t learning the botanical name but reading the architecture.