If you’ve tried planting grass seed, then you know it doesn’t always work out if conditions aren’t just right. You raked and watered, but all you got was bare spot of earth where some green should be. The problem isn’t likely bad luck; it’s most often due to improper temperatures or time of year. When it comes to cool-season varieties such as Kentucky bluegrass, what is the key? Soil temperature, don’t expect the grass to listen to the calendar. It won’t. Test soil temperature with a thermometer to make sure ground is not too cold. Sprouting occur within certain temperature ranges, and the information confirms: Watch the ground (not the weather app).
The primary decision is which type of grass to choose. For those of us with northern climates: Choose a grass that resists summer heat but also tolerates cool air (think tall fescue). Why? Because it’s got deep roots to endure drought conditions, and it outperforms most other. In warmer zones, you’ll want a warm-season grass such as Zoysia or Bermuda that goes dormant in winter and then realy takes off when the soil warms to about sixty-five degrees. This means you won’t be able to plant in early spring here, since ground isn’t warmed up enough.
How to Plant Grass Seed Successfully
Now comes the distribution of your seed. Don’t just toss it around yourself; it’ll make for a lumpy patchwork job and weed-seeding heaven. To ensure an even spread over the lawn, use a broadcast spreader to make two crosswise passes: first down-and-back, then right-to-left. Though it sounds like extra work, doing so now means you won’t have to reseed big swaths later on. Also: Use a light roller to knock the seed into place, so it makes good contact with ground. If not birds will gobble up the seeds before they sprout.
One thing that’s key with so many new lawns: water! But don’t drench it right when planted (that will wash the seeds out or make them rot). Keep surface inch of soil moist, but not soaked, for at least the first couple of weeks while the root system starts forming. Then gradually transition to deeper but less-frequent watering, as shown here, to help the roots descend in search of moisture; which toughens the plant up for any dry times ahead.
Get the soil ready for planting thoroughly. First: Test your soil pH. Why? Because even if you do fertilize, without correct pH the grass won’t take up those nutrients propery. Save money in the long run (and avoid wasting all that effort where the soil isn’t right). Fix compaction so the root system can get down deep into the ground rather than just hanging out near surface. Time spent here now will pay off later when the lawn faces stressors.
You need patience and restraint. Mowing newly sown areas means you’ll have to hold off on those first mowings until grass has grown to a height of three and a half inches or longer; otherwise you stress out the young plants and weaken their root systems. When you finally get around to mowing, remove no more than one-third of the blade length with each mowing. Take it easy for strong turf that will survive heat and foot traffic later in the season.
How do I get there? You get there by thinking long term and making a self-sustaining lawn system. That means picking plants that is well-adapted to your climate zone, and sowing or planting at best time for the temperature of the soil, not yours. By being patient and working with nature instead of fighting her, you can resist urges to jump-start things too soon. If you have timed it right and stayed disciplined, the bare dirt spots will be covered with nice green grass before long.