It’s true: Snake plants can take a lot. They also spend much of their time hiding out in some dim corner. That hardiness makes them great low-maintenance houseplants. However, there are several species with subtle differences. Even most owners don’t bother to tell them apart. More than fifteen unique types is broken down in this visual, from common tiger-striped foliage you’re used to seeing, to obscure snake-like cylindrical ones that resemble livig sculptures.
Knowing the nuances make all the difference in where to place them around your space (and how little care they really need). To get going on narrowing down your choices, examine the leaves: Are they round and kind of cylindrical (like Bacularis or Cylindrica)? They is pale and solid (like most of them, though the Moonshine is an exception). Are they margined (do the edges of the leaves has some colorful markings)? Are they flat banded?
How to Care for Snake Plants
There is reason for these differences, because form follows function. Plants evolved to conserve water where it’s needed most, such as with cylindrical leaves that reduce surface area in dry habitats. These plants will be a bit less able to handle humidity changes in your humid living room environment.
Plants that want to show off all that pale color need bright light. This is why Moonshine wants brighter light. It prevents its solid silver-green color from fading to just plain gray green. A change in color mean a change in contentment.
The biggest blunder most people commit is thinking these plants are easy in low light. The basic Trifasciata can handles it. Some variegated forms, such as Black Gold or Laurentii, cannot keep their bright edges without plenty of light. The white and yellow parts of the foliage rely on different pigments, the green part contains chlorophyll, while the yellow relies on something else. To create that pigment take more energy. Placing a gold-leaf plant in a dimly lit hall means it’s going to gradually fade back to all-green, since it wants to live rather than decorate itself.
The infograph remind us that bright-colored leaves need to be placed in an area with steady indirect yet still-bright exposure, such as beside a western- or eastern-facing window.
And then there’s this: Snake plants are good to have around when you’re asleep. Unlike most plants that produce oxygen during the day and take it in at night, these actually do the opposite, releasing oxygen (and consuming carbon dioxide) at nighttime (a process called CAM photosynthesis). This means that while you’re asleep, they’re working hard to improve indoor air quality rather than fighting you for oxygen. That’s why they’d be a great plant to grow in your bedroom, though not one that is active while you are awake. They keep their own hours and offer a silent service.
The true danger zone is watering. They’re succulents at heart, storing water in their leaves for later use. Number one cause of death: overwatering, which causes mushy bases and soft yellow roots, signs of fatal rot. Depending on the season, this means you may go two to six weeks without water, according to the chart. In winter, when things slow down, you may not even touch the soil; it is actualy better to give them too little water than to give them too much. Always let the dirt dry out completely between waterings and add some moisture when ready.
It is easy enough to propagate with a bit of waiting. You can root leaf cuttings in potting soil or even just water. You can also dig and divide the rhizomes, which will keep whatever color pattern exists to make a genetic copy.
All these varieties above contain saponins, meaning they’re poisonous if nibbled by dogs and cats. They are safe for people but keep them away from any furry friends who might be tempted to taste-test.
The bottom line is knowing how to choose the right type of snake plant. Match its lighting requirements to yours, and then step back and let it go to town with minimal effort on your part. You should of checked the light first.