When I first planted my first cherry tree, I had high hopes; but was left with nothing but bare branches, no fruit. Why? Most sweet cherry variety are not able to produce fruit alone. To make babies (or fruit), a sweet cherry need another variety of itself or a close relative nearby that will pollinate it with its pollen. Sour cherry varieties, however, are largely self-fruitful, meaning that a lone sour cherry can bear fruit all by itself. Knowing which ones do what is key, though, when creating an orchard plan that works.
Before planting sweet cherries, do your homework; they must be compatible, meaning they bloom at roughly the same time. A tree that blooms mid-May won’t cross-pollinate with a different variety blooming three weeks earlier (or even later), since no bee is going to carry pollen for it. For good pollination, you want varieties whose bloom periods coincides, so insects can shuttle that genetic material back and forth efficiently. Visual charts makes it easy to see where those overlaps occur. The trees will otherwise sit there all alone at the most critical moment of their life cycle.
How to Grow Cherry Trees Successfully
For those who don’t want to grow many tree or have limited space, there are sweet varieties that will set on their own, meaning they’re a sensible choice. The moddern varieties such as Sweetheart, Lapins, and Stella is self-fruitful; no partner tree required. Even better: Stella not only sets a crop itself but serves as a universal pollinator for other trees. If you only have space for one tree, select one of these so you don’t have to worry about whether your neighbors are the right match.
For optimal pollination, also keep in mind that the bees won’t be able to fly very far, so space the trees within fifty to one hundred feet of each other, rather than putting them too far away. If you do, and the trees is set back some distance from each other, the crop will be spotty because the bees aren’t doing their job well enough. So take measurements first and dig to match.
Cherry trees will grow in sun or part shade, but don’t like wet soil; this can cause root rot, killing them long before they’re even up to pollinating age. For optimal results, grow your cherries in well-draining loamy soil with a slightly neutral (near 7) pH. If your ground doesn’t fit that description, you’ll want to amend it. Sun is non-negotiable: Cherries need six to eight hours of direct sun a day for good production, both in terms of size and sweetness. Less than that, forget about any harvest except leaves.
One of the most important factors for successful cherry growing: protect those blooms from frost (a night down to 28 degrees F or so will knock out a whole season’s worth in an instant). Again, plant on a hillside so the chilly air flows away from the plants to spare the precious blooms. One small tweak like this; a physical one!. Could of saved the harvest from a hard freeze. Bonus points if you live where it freezes, too, go with a late-bloomer like Sweetheart (above), which avoids the worst weather by opening when the danger has largely passed.
The last hurdle is birds, who will snatch at any juicy fruit that ripens. Netting is the only reliable defense, whereas reflective tape only offers temporary confusion. To save your crop from birds, set out some mesh netting when the fruit starts to color up, don’t wait till you see missing cherries; it’s too late.
Cherries are cooperative partners, no forcing, no hurry, and they require time to grow. Do them right: Find suitable companions, respect their needs, and make sure you give them enough sunshine. If you do all this, you will get a fine reward. Even the first year with bare branches will teach you that nature wants cooperation. Knowing the dance makes you expect the rush of life under the flowers.